Best new restaurants in London 2022

After stints in Michelin-starred restaurants and his own supper clubs, Filipino chef Ferdinand “Budgie” Montoya serves slow-roasted lechon pork, rice bowls and pulutan snacks from a nook in Brixton Market. His new restaurant residency at 10 Heddon Street is a slicker, smarter affair, complete with a statement concrete bar (serving unique cocktails such as a delicate rose and hibiscus-infused rum spritz), booths that glide beneath low lighting, and a mossy living wall past the large open kitchen.

Modern twists on Filipino classics include the ‘bistek’ – perfectly pink aged rump cap served with a bright calamansi and soy jus and charred leeks; crunchy, umami-rich charred hispi cabbage slathered in traditional bagoong fermented shrimp paste; and ceviche-like monkfish escabeche doused in a spicy coconut vinegar, calamansi juice and chilli marinade, with tiny spheres of cucumber and sweet and sour red pepper sauce. The highlight is pork trotter stuffed with a soy, ginger and pork stock-laced adobo rice, or, if you’re in a group, order the whole suckling pig ahead for a lemongrass and truffle-stuffed feast. There’s a savoury edge to the dense cassava cheesecake for dessert, lifted with sweet macapuno cream and pandan syrup. saraplondon.com

Carmel, Queen’s Park

Josh Katz brings his sophisticated eastern Mediterranean cooking West

Josh Katz’s second London restaurant is nestled beside other neighbourhood joints in a converted stable on cobbled Lonsdale Road. Low lighting and mismatched candlesticks cast a glow across the eclectic, cosy dining space; a brushed coral banquette clutches a corner, stools line a white tiled counter bar, and a large wooden table glides down the centre. There are plants aplenty; suspended from the ceiling, in pots behind the bar and hanging over the pass of the open kitchen where Josh and his team work the tabun oven and grills to create sophisticated eastern Mediterranean dishes.

Scoop up thick, tahini-rich hummus alongside pillowy, chewy sourdough flatbreads topped with the likes of spiced lamb with Aleppo chilli and sumac yogurt, and wild mushroom with crème fraîche, s'chug and manouri cheese. Grilled harissa prawns are slathered in garlic and ‘nduja with a cooling courgette tzatziki, melting turmeric-roasted cauliflower is jewelled with pomegranate and walnuts, and charred, slow-grilled Urfa chilli chicken sits on a wedge of sourdough soaked in molasses-rich juices and caramelised onions. A statement wine rack showcases low-intervention bottles from Jerez, Sicily and beyond. Or the negroni bianchi has a luminous hue from the zesty gentian liqueur, while the sazaraki is spiked with arak for an eastern twist.

Carmelrestaurant.co.uk

Brindisa, Richmond

Bustling Spanish tapas restaurant with a new home in scenic Richmond

Brindisa has made its first foray into the London suburbs, opening an expansive restaurant overlooking the River Thames in one of the prettiest spots in Richmond. The vibrant tapas bar has been refurbished with bright Spanish tiles, cosy booths, an impressive bar and an open kitchen. Despite its popularity, the staff are warm and generous with their time and knowledge, talking you through their recommendations and helping you order just the right amount. The menu is meant for sharing tapas-style and has all of the Spanish classics, such as crisp ham croquettes, patatas bravas and delicately sliced octopus served with capers, smoked paprika and olive oil. If you’d like to try something slightly more unusual, the creamy rice cooked with foraged wild mushrooms & truffle is incredibly moreish with a beautiful, earthy taste. Brindisa also serves Sunday roasts with a Spanish twist – think anchovy butter greens and jamon Ibérico fat roast potatoes, perfect for a relaxed lunch with friends or family, they serve child-size portions for £8 too. brindisakitchens.com

Manthan, Mayfair

Quality Indian street food in a romantic setting

With a pedigree like chef Rohit Ghai’s, expectations of the food at his new Mayfair restaurant are high – and it doesn't disappoint. Rohit led the kitchens at Gymkhana and Trishna before opening his first venue, Kutir, in Chelsea. At Manthan – the Hindi word meaning to churn and reflect – Rohit takes inspiration from his mother’s cooking and the street food of India. The Maddox Street dining room is long and wood-panelled, adorned with beautiful paintings of exotic flowers. Even at lunchtime it feels romantic, and the sharing dishes reflect that vibe. If you’re here for the first time, have an overview experience and choose two dishes from the Gali ka khana (street food) section, one from Rassedar (curries), one from Chapata Chops & Tikka, plus a couple of sides. To start, ghati masala prawns are plump and tender, coated with sesame, peanut and coconut for a satisfying crispy crunch. Jackfruit tacos are a revelation – almost meaty in texture, stuffed into fluffy rice lentil pancakes with southern spice and chutney. Fall-off-the-bone lamb ossobuco sits in a silky, satirsfying sauce flavoured with jaffa spices and curry leaf, while sarson chicken, tangy and hot with mustard and chilli, is as soft as butter. If you have room for dessert, opt for the Classic Trip of sweet laddoo, sticky gulab jamun and creamy srikhand. manthanmayfair.co.uk

Bar Flounder, Hackney

Juicy prawn burgers, turbot tenders and Basque wine at a modern seafood shack in Hackney

Broadway Market fishmonger Fin and Flounder – supplier to top London restaurants such as Bright, Brat and Rochelle Canteen – has opened a seafood stall in Netil Market.

Bar Flounder uses the shop’s stellar British sustainable fish and seafood to create a moreish street-food menu, from scallop and bacon butties to lobster rolls, all expertly cooked by Ruby, daughter of Fin and Flounder owner Brendan O’Sullivan.

Sit at the counter and start with fritto misto – generous chunks of prawn and fish in a crisp, light, herb-flecked batter – and turbot tenders with a zingy buffalo hot sauce. Both impress, but the must-order is the moreish prawn burger, a chunky, juicy, bouncy patty served with melty cheese, chipotle mayo and pickles in a squishy brioche bun. Ordering another to eat straight after finishing the first would be entirely understandable.

Sides of chips and deep-fried pickles complete the line-up (there’s also a brunch menu featuring the likes of crab hash browns and lobster muffins), as well as a fun drinks offering of spritzy txakoli wine, pale ale and vermouth slushies with agave, Cointreau and soda. instagram.com/barflounder

Kudu Grill, Nunhead

Open-fire South African cooking and smoky cocktails

The latest in the mini London family-run south African empire, in a converted Truman’s boozer in Nunhead, focuses on braai-style open-fire cooking over South African coals. Elegant dark green velvet booths hug exposed brick walls adorned with vintage mirrors, and four burnt orange stools at the counter bar provide opportunity to watch chefs caress meat and veg with flames and shake up smoky cocktails. Try the smoky strawberry-infused bourbon negroni and a zippy, chilli-infused tequila margarita in a chilli salt-rimmed coupe. Share pillowy potato flatbreads with slivers of lardo, zingy chimichurri and fermented garlic. Nibble knobbly pork tails coated in sweet honey mustard. Plump, in-shell prawns are slathered in creamy peri peri and harissa beef tartare is topped with crispy onion rings and zhoug. For main, perfectly pink slices of pork chop are accompanied with south Africa’s iconic sweet and tangy BBQ monkey gland sauce. Both potato dishes are must-orders: a small cast iron pot keeps the creamy chicken-skin-topped smoked potato warm, while crunchy beef fat fingerlings encase piping hot fluffy centres. For pudding, the mint chocolate crémeux with whipped dulce de leche cream and a delicate sable biscuit is a perfect after-dinner tart. kuducollective.com

Brutto, Farringdon

A Florentine trattoria with classic dishes for sharing

Refreshingly, this new Tuscan-Florentine restaurant isn’t one that values style over substance. Recently opened by Polpo’s Russell Norman, the relaxed, no-frills interior is reminiscent of more old-school Italian establishments, with red gingham tablecloths, walls lined with framed pictures and a wine menu that’s modestly stapled together, emphasising good Tuscan bottles. The menu is particularly good for sharing, with four small pasta plates that include a delicate rabbit pappardelle, and tagliatelle with a nostalgically rich, meaty ragu-style sauce. Start with the deep-fried dough ball ‘cuddles’ antipasti, paired well with thin slices of salty prosciutto and creamy stracchino. The mains, or secondi, are quite beef-focused, with a blackboard of perfectly cooked T-bone steaks to be ordered per 100g, and a hearty Tuscan beef shin stew. Alternatively, you can try the juicy pork and fennel sausages with lentils and a big dollop of dijon mustard. Leave room for a slice of the light, layered apple tart, or the ‘ugly but good’ cookies – these crisp hazelnut meringues originate from Tuscany, served here with smooth vanilla ice cream. Despite ‘brutto’ translating to ‘ugly’ in Italian, the food here is far from it. It’s simple, but it proves that good food doesn’t have to be stylish. msha.ke/brutto

Taqueria, Exmouth Market

Westbourne Grove's taco specialist takes its Mexican snacks and cocktails east

Notting Hill’s popular taco specialist – originally a stall on Portobello Road – has branched out to a bright corner spot on Exmouth Market, strung with exposed bulb-wire chandeliers and filled with tables that spill out onto the bustling pedestrianised street. An elegant marble bar takes centre stage, lined with bottles of mezcal and tequila for cocktails (including a six-strong margarita list). Try the zippy classic cocktail served on the rocks in a salt-rimmed tumbler, a delicately floral hibiscus-laced twist, or the on-trend smoky mezcal margarita finished with a smoked chilli salt rim. The Mexican menu includes snacks such as frilly calamari with roast scotch bonnet mayo, lively salsas and vibrant, creamy guacamole with homemade tortilla chips. Tacos are a must – tempura cod is livened up with chipotle mayo, avocado crema and pico de gallo, while the popular al pastor tacos are filled with grilled pork and pineapple. Tostadas are beautifully presented with crunchy iceberg and toasted tortilla shards propped up in a plate of silky salmon, avocado, black sesame and burnt lemon. Save room for warm, crisp churros for pudding, with another margarita, perhaps. taqueria.co.uk

MEATLiquor, Clapham

The London-born burger brand goes big on its latest opening

November marks 10 years since the first MEATliquor restaurant launched. Their origins from a burger van in Peckham, to a pop-up above an abandoned pub in New Cross, couldn’t be further from the latest venture – and biggest yet – in Clapham’s Old Town. The huge space has two bars, a heated outdoor dining area with TVs and a large projector and photo booth inside. Everything about MEATliquor is full-on – from the graffiti-led design and the music played, to the flavours on the menu, a mix of American diner specials, all with a MEATliquor twist. Burger aficionados will point to the Dead Hippie: a French’s-mustard-fried double patty with onions, cheese, lettuce and pickles all within a soft bun that soaks up the good stuff. Buffalo chicken wings are a match for any of those found in the US and the loaded fries on offer are a meal within themselves. There are a range of vegetarian and vegan options – from the Tempeh Tantrum patty to the Black Bean Chilli Dog. The drinks list is a mix of craft beers and cocktails, and that’s before you hit the ‘Poke For Jäger’ button on your table.meatliquor.com

Rondo La Cave, Holborn

Cute, on-trend wine bar with clever pop-up concept

The team behind The Hoxton hotels is very much alive to trends across the world and always brings something new and exciting to London’s restaurant scene. Cue this gorgeous little basement bar in the Hoxton Holborn, with a regularly changing rota of world-class chefs, focus on natural wines, and commitment to careful sourcing. First in residence is chef Adam Rawson’s postcard from Peru. Cantina Valentina has a short and punchy menu of must-tries starting with a peach and pine pisco cocktail paired with the deep-fried cheese wonton loveliness of El tequeño and dipping sauces. Weighty pork belly chicharones, grilled duck skewers and coal-baked lamb neck are balanced by lighter dishes such as sea trout ceviche with passionfruit and turmeric tiger’s milk. Clued-up staff can recommend low-intervention wines from British vineyards and beyond and if you want to stray from the concise wine list, visit the in-house shop (£20 corkage). Keep an eye on the website or @rondolacave Instagram for the next residency. rondolacave.com

Bisushima, Trafalgar Square

Lively and luxe Japanese in the centre of town

Find this slick Japanese restaurant on the top floor of the Page8 hotel, a stone’s throw from Trafalgar Square, and see the full menu being prepared at the counter or ring-side booth. Its scale, DJ action, and imaginative cocktail list makes for a buzzing night out, but never detracting from top-class cooking from a large open kitchen. Along with classic sashimi and sushi, black cod, tempura shrimp and chicken kara-age there are more unusual, seasonal and signature dishes with luxe touches such as tuna sashimi with burrata and truffles, a lobster and cauliflower purée starter with tosaku jelly and grilled dry-aged eel and egg truffle risotto. The huge terrace make it a popular summer spot, too. bisushima.com

The Fuji Grill at Beaverbrook Town House, Chelsea

Counter dining omakase sushi menu

Take a counter seat to see sushi master Goemon Ishikawa at work as he prepares an exquisite omakase (chef’s choice) menu at this plush new Chelsea hotel. Around 20 bite-sized dishes are prepared with skill, precision and imagination and offered with short introductions and suggested wine pairings. From the first dish of red bream with pickled kohlrabi through to a dinky dessert of matcha cake with poached pear, there are intriguing combinations of Japanese and British ingredients. Highlights are hamachi with smoked aubergine purée and caviar; texturally interesting squid and cauliflower; home-smoked salmon and British finger lime; and six-day dry-aged akami zuke, chu toro and o toro (tuna). The meal closes with a ‘cheese’ course of ankimo (monkish liver) with chutney and fennel cracker and a bowl of delicate clear broth. While the entrance to the restaurant is through the lively hotel bar, the restaurant itself is quieter and soothingly art deco in style with walls featuring pictures of Mount Fuji. There are two sittings, 6pm and 8.30pm, with counter space for just six guests. beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk

Joe Allen, Covent Garden

American classics with a British accent in Theatreland

Beloved by the theatre crowd – that’s those on stage, behind the scenes and in the audience – the USA-inspired all-day restaurant has moved into new premises off The Strand, with new (ex-The Ivy) chef Gary Lee on board. Playful touches kick off the menu; mini shepherd’s ‘tarts’, a truffled cheese toastie and ‘love it or hate it’ – a riff on Marmite. Classic dishes include slow-baked smoked ribs, strip steak with fat chips, hotdogs with or without chilli and a decent caesar along with seasonal mains such as hearty braised beef in barolo and roasted squash risotto. Dessert features the very American peanut butter and jelly ice cream sandwich and the very British eccles cake with cheese. What make Joe’s so special, along with live piano and great cocktails (try a New York Wasp with salt and paprika rim) is its brilliantly laidback but ever-efficient staff who make it seem as fun to work as it is to eat there. The set menu available until 7pm offers great value at three courses for £27.50. joeallen.co.uk

The Seafood Bar, Soho

Celebrated Amsterdam seafood restaurant arrives in London

Already a raging success in the Netherlands because of its commitment to serving quality, sustainably sourced seafood at a reasonable price, this is the first international branch to open in London on Dean Street, Soho. The restaurant occupies the ground floor of a Georgian townhouse and the grand dimensions, pale wood and white interior and high ceilings give the space a luxurious but airy feel. The menu is comprehensive with several different sections covering hot and cold starters, crustaceans, oysters, fruit de mer platters, mussels, mixed seafood grills, caviar and even fish and chips. We almost go for the full bells-and-whistles giant double-decker fruit de mer platter that every table seems to be ordering, but our waiter after a hunger check-in advises a smaller platter, plus a couple of hot starters, which are both winners; sweet, juicy clams in a delicate wine and garlic sauce, and plump creamy, gratinated scallops in the shell. Our fruit de mer platter is a shellfish-lover's dream with some more unusual offerings such as razor clams, periwinkles and whole brown shrimp alongside mussels, cockles, clams, prawns, crab, seaweed salad and oysters. Everything is served simply on ice with lemon and mayo allowing the freshness and quality of the seafood to shine through – a perfect pairing with a crisp glass of Grüner Veltliner. theseafoodbar.com

Chourangi, Marble Arch

Buzzy Calcutta-inspired restaurant next to Marble Arch

Named after the district of Calcutta (as the owners refer to the city we now call Kolkata) and translating as ‘crossroads’, the food at Chouranghi is a curation of ‘unexplored’ surprises from the British, Dutch, Armenian, French, Portuguese and Chinese who have influenced its cuisine. There are a lot of high-end Indian restaurants in London, each with its own ‘well, that was worth the money/must go back again’ dish. At this bright and vibrant open-plan venue, where you can watch the theatre of the chefs at work from the street, it’s the black dal. Simmered overnight until the urad lentils break down, then finished with spices and butter, it’s an unctuous, creamy, perfectly spiced bowl of deliciousness. In the hands of Indian restaurateur Anjan Chatterjee and Aditya Ghosh, the dishes are simple yet intricately flavoured. Kamal Kakdi Chaat is a creamy, crunchy concoction with a fiery hit of sweet chilli-soy-jaggery. Nizami Makai Tikka, cooked with soft cheese, has an aromatic finish from aamada (mango ginger). Chingri Cutlets (beaten-out breaded prawns) are dense and ‘meaty’ while another star is blistering Paanch Phoran, Welsh rack of lamb seasoned with ‘Calcutta five-spice’. And have you heard of Bhapa Hilsa – Calcutta’s queen of fish? Think white salmon – soft, oily and flake-apart. chourangi.co.uk

Hackney Coterie, Hackney

A low-waste brasserie and wine bar

Anthony Lyon, owner of Crouch End’s nose-to-fin restaurant, Lyon’s, has teamed up with sommelier Kelvin McCabe to open this minimal-waste brasserie in Hackney. Orange banquettes glide beneath vibrant artwork from street-artist friends, Panic and Wafa. Exposed brick provides a backdrop to the contemporary bar lined low-intervention wines (try the unique skin-contact Zibibbo for a citrusy, aromatic pairing). The white negroni is fragrant and bitter, while the Hackney spritz is a complex and refreshing take on the classic, infusing chamomile tea, clarified apple cordial and wasabi and apple sparkling wine. Highlights of the sharing plates include a mackerel fillet in an umami-rich mirin-Marmite glaze with pickled cucumbers, and a trio of crisp-layered confit potato stacks coated in Szechuan seasoning with black tea mayo. Our pick of the generous sharing mains is a dry-aged soy salmon steak, formed of two fillets of perfectly pink salmon with a lively sambal salad to boot. To finish, hot filo apple tart encases chunks of Bramley apple in a beurre noisette caramel sauce, topped with honeycomb-like pieces of hazelnut and koji butter. hackneycoterie.net

Royale, Bethnal Green

East London's own Provençal rotisserie joint

Whatever the London weather, this Provençal-inspired restaurant from the team at Leroy under head chef Lucy Timm offers ‘cosy’ inside (bookable) or ‘sunny’ outside (take your chances) equally well. Set within the East London Liquor Company, cocktails come from its bar, while the wine list is of course French. Starters cycle through familiar and less so dishes including panisses (chickpea fries) served with aïoli, anchovies with Piquillo pepper and pecorino, and a memorable white bean dip complete with a pack of Bonilla crisps. You could easily make a meal of these small plates and return another day for the crisp skinned rotisserie Anjou chicken flavoured with herbes de Provence served with the dripping potatoes cooked below it. There was also a roasted lemon sole with brown butter and capers main course on the board the day we visited. Desserts include blackberry and almond tart or chocolate ganache with crème anglaise – a fitting end. royalelondon.com

The Engine Rooms, East Finchley

A hidden gem combining classic cars with revved-up all-day dining

There’s a hidden gem on the Great North Road and it’s called The Engine Rooms – a dining experience that combines classic cars with contemporary cooking. The entrance takes you into a showroom of vehicles of desire that would have any petrolhead drooling but it’s the food that takes the chequered flag: it is a revelation. The concept is the brainchild of Paul Michaels, owner of Hexagon, one of the best known classic car dealers in Europe. It marries marvellous motors with modern art and Med-inspired all-day dining overseen by head chef James Harrison, using seasonal, mostly British ingredients. Start with burrata – a creamy globe of unctuous cheese, with grilled plums, chicory, dukkha spice, plum and mint; or grey mullet ceviche with confit tomato dressing and cured egg yolk. Mains are so beautifully plated they could be sit alongside the art on the walls: robata grilled monkfish tail, meaty and magnificent (and nigh on impossible to cook at home) is glazed in miso and soy with samphire; giant king prawns are perfectly pink, charcoal smoky with roasted nori and yuzu cultured butter. Most dazzling of the desserts is the gin & tonic cheesecake: special enough, but made spectacular by minted Makrut lime sorbet. Delightful. theenginerooms.co.uk

Korean Dinner Party, Soho

Moreish snacks and creative cocktails are the highlight of this Korean-inspired Soho restaurant

Head to the top of Kingly Court in Soho to discover this this lively opening inspired by Korean flavours and LA’s Mexican food scene, with menus designed by prolific chef duo Ana Gonçalves and Zijun Meng of Tata Eatery, and craft sake from London’s only sake brewery, Peckham’s Kanpai. Inside, expect stripped-back interiors with concrete walls, neon lighting and Korean wall art. An eclectic menu covers everything from Korean corn dogs to tacos and kimchi pancakes. There are larger dishes on offer – go for the Korean tacos with 48-hour slow-cooked beef short rib, ssamjang, slae and homemade wrappers – but it’s the sharing snacks and cocktails that especially impress. Bacon mochi, fudgy chewy rice cakes wrapped in caramelised bacon with gochujang caramel are succulently umami, while ‘chikin’ turns out to be a mound of tender nuggets and rice sticks decadently blanketed in garlic cream and parmesan. The drinks list features fresh twists on classic drinks, such as a plum Americano made with Korean plum wine and Kanpai umeshu. We tried the pleasingly fiery Michelada Boilermaker – spiced Korean beer served with a shot of sake alongside – and the sultry and silky burnt rice old fashioned to finish. koreandinnerparty.com

Sessions Arts Club, Farringdon

Italian inspired small plates in arty surroundings

If you like to experiment, share and discover new ingredients and flavours, this is your dream menu. Chef Florence knight (formerly of Polpo) has created something very unique, with Italian-inspired small plates and mains that read very simply but are put together in such a way as to surprise and delight. Friggitelli (charred green peppers served with puréed cannellini beans lightened with citrus) and hearty pork belly, fennel and orange packs a punch. Our stand-out dishes were a fragrant, rich saffron and tomato tart, and eel, potato, crème fraîche and roe – a slab of thinly layered potato that’s both soft and crunchy, with the fish adding a subtle saltiness. The room is an easy place to lose an afternoon or evening with a high ceiling, distressed walls, comfortable booths and a mezzanine floor with outdoor bar. sessionsartsclub.com

Kalimera, Crouch End

Street-food favourite gets a permanent home in North London

Télémaque Argyriou has been sharing his modern Greek cooking from a food truck since 2015, but this year sees the first permanent site in Crouch End. The space is cosy, but fresh white tiles with accents of sunshine yellow give a breezy atmosphere. The menu is concise, divided into small and large plates. Feta comes in a filo pastry shell, fried until crisp then finished with honey and pistachios with creamy, crunchy, sweet and salty contrasts and a punchy baba ganoush on the side. Prawn saganaki – fat prawns cooked in a fennel and tomato sauce – has a metsovone cheese and spicy zhoug topping. Large plates are generous – the house moussaka is classically made with rich lamb and beef ragu layered with potatoes and aubergine, then topped with béchamel and given a little extra kick from harissa. Lamb kleftiko is a slow-cooked whole shank that falls apart onto a bed of crisp potatoes and peppers. For dessert, the mastic ice cream is dense, creamy and sticky, topped with crunchy kataifi pastry and sour cherry sauce to offset the sweetness. To drink, try the "very dirty" martini, infused with thyme and served with kalamata olives. The wine list is Greek-focussed with some great bottles, such as Dafnios Vidiano, a crisp white with peach and pear accents. kalimera.london

Sachi at The Pantechnicon, Knightsbridge

Intriguing events space with imaginative sharing plates

Top and tailing this destination design, shopping and eating complex is Elder, a Nordic-inspired rooftop space, and now Sachi, the atmospheric Japanese restaurant on the lower ground floor. While just a few moments from busy Knightsbridge, its dim lighting, Japanese garden decor and hidden booths make it feel like another world. Overseen by executive chef Chris Golding (whose experience includes Zuma and Nahm), the menu features regional Japanese dishes using the best British ingredients, such as Scottish scallops and lobster and Cornish monkfish, many cooked over fire on the robata grill. Among favourites such as sashimi, nigiri and maki rolls, agedashi tofu, tempura and a magnificent nasu (miso aubergine), discover some unique dishes such as seabass with lava salt and seabuckthorn, butinako – a rich pork belly braised in barley miso – shortrib with fermented mushroom and black garlic, and luxurious wagyu with beetroot and miso. The sommelier will guide you through each course, explaining the source and complexities of each saki as you go. Finish your meal with a sakura cocktail (gin, vermouth and peach) in Sakaya, the tiny whisky bar. pantechnicon.com/sachi

Koya Ko, Hackney

Superbly springy Japanese udon noodle specialist heads east

Tucked away off buzzing Broadway Market, Koya’s casual, friendly little sister follows suit from noodle bars found in Japan’s train stations, with a tachi-gui (standing-while-dining) element alongside seats for customers to slurp bowls of springy udon and tuck into donburi rice bowls. Pop in for the famous English/Japanese breakfast of hot udon topped with egg, bacon and butter soy mushrooms, or traditional neba-neba breakfast rice bowl with fermented soy beans, pickled seaweed and okra and onsen tamago egg. After midday, there’s crunchy chicken kara-age with spring onion sauce and steaming bowls of udon in dashi broth. Try new menu additions, such as slow-braised beef shin on hot noodles slathered in chilli oil, the KO salad of cold udon with pickled aubergine, and plenty of mini-don rice bowls to enjoy on the go. koya.co.uk

José Pizarro at Royal Academy of Arts

Daytime tapas in central London gallery

Chef José Pizarro’s beautiful new Mayfair outpost is a reflection of the chef’s lifelong love of art. With high ceilings and wood-panelling this light-filled room at Royal Academy of Arts is the ideal daytime spot to enjoy a quick glass of manzanilla and some acorn-fed cinco jotas jamón or a long, lazy lunch. Among José classics such as croquetas, pan con tomate, chorizo al vino and prawns with garlic and chilli are some new additions, including the must-order truffle and Ermenesada cheese toasted sandwich. On the ground floor he has also opened the walk-in Poster Bar, selling delicious bocadillos (sandwiches) and snacks. Both are open during the daytime only, closed on Monday. josepizarro.com

Madhu's of Mayfair, Piccadilly

Indian dishes with a Kenyan twist in a sumptuous setting

‘Special occasion’ are the first words that spring to mind when you walk into the ornate dining room of Madhu’s of Mayfair, complete with enormous chandeliers, rococo-style architecture and marble tables. But far from feeling formal, the vibe is fun and friendly, bustling with birthday parties, tourists and after-work businessfolk. The design is the vision of Madhu’s founder Sanjay Anand, who wanted to "create an experience which engages each of the senses – not just taste".

The food comes from creative chef Poonam Ball – Sanjay’s sister. She oversees the menus of the Madhu group’s four restaurants. It’s Indian, but with a Kenyan twist, including recipes handed down through four generations from her Nairobi-born mother Krishna and her father Jagdish Kumar Anand (nicknamed Madhu). Choose the signature dishes: palak patta chaat, a pile of crunchy marsh samphire and crispy spinach with warming spices and tangy chutneys; nyamah choma, succulent prime cut lamb ribs marinated in chilli and lemon; and Madhu’s machi's – whole seabass in an onion and carom seed marinade – which is ‘special occasion’ luxurious. madhus.co.uk

BAO Noodle Shop, Shoreditch

Silky noodle bowls join the steamed bun line-up in this Taiwanese mini empire

The Taiwanese trio behind this mini pillowy bun empire have applied their signature style to this Shoreditch outpost – ruby red leather stools around blonde wood tables, soft globe wall lights and a white tiled bar, where staff in bespoke lab coats mix clever cocktails. An unusual sweet potato sour is creamy and silky with a sweet, earthy depth, and the old fashioned is given extra body from milk-washed whisky and Taiwanese tea.

Small plates include crunchy Taiwanese fried chicken pieces, boiled cull yaw dumplings and crispy spring rolls filled with stretchy cheese and soy-cured jalapeños. Pillowy steamed buns are filled with the likes of prawn croquette with black garlic glaze and slow-cooked pork with a peanut crumb. Three noodle dishes join the regulars – the richer Taipei-style broth is topped with slow-cooked beef cheek and short rib, plus a dollop of spiced beef butter to melt through the silky homemade noodles. A lighter Tainan broth features rare sliced beef with melting edges of frilly fat, while sesame fried aubergine sits atop an umami-rich vegan kelp soup. Downstairs, there’s a karaoke den adorned with bespoke wallpaper for those who want to book for a bao-fuelled sing-along. baolondon.com

Bar La Rampa, Oxford Circus

A taste of Cuba in central London

Exuberant interiors, live music and a crowd-pleasing menu define this vibrant celebration of 1950s Havana. The expansive site – minutes from Oxford Circus – marries a rich palette of warm neutrals and earthy hues with masses of tumbling, tropical greenery. There’s also an outdoor terrace, a wood and rattan bar, sleek mid-century furniture and velvet banquettes.

The food menu comes courtesy of Ana Gonçalves and Zijun Meng of TĀTĀ Eatery – expect modern spins on traditional Cuban and Central American dishes. Particular highlights include the juicy, succulent elote corn ‘ribs’ with a spicy vegan chipotle mayo, and a decadent Cuban sandwich with crispy pork belly, ham, raclette cheese and gherkins – it’s a must-order.

Designed by Sager + Wilde’s Marcis Dzelzainis, the drinks list is focused on classic rum cocktails, including plenty of mojitos and (pleasingly large) daiquiris. Alongside all of this is a live music programme that includes a house band and Cuban-themed nights during the week. barlarampa.com

Mr Ji, Soho

Taiwanese chicken, small plates and cocktail twists in a buzzy bar environment

This small Soho joint is, as it states on the brushed concrete walls, “a modern Asian eatery, all about chicken, small eats and cocktails”. Bottles of Taiwanese whisky sit on the minimalist shelves above the counter bar, while hanging plants juxtapose industrial piping at the back. Share a few small plates to start – unusual daikon cake drizzled with confit garlic soy paste, panko-crusted chicken hearts with a mild katsu curry sauce, and a deep-fried prawn toast brick topped with parmesan fluff that melts into a creamy sweetcorn, prawn and bechamel filling. There are four main chicken dishes to choose from, accompanied by fresh and zingy 24-hour fermented golden kimchi. Traditional Taiwanese tapioca-fried chicken breast is served with scissors to cut into manageable pieces as well as piccalilli mayo to offset the chilli heat. Tender chicken nuggets are slathered in a crispy chilli sauce, and silky poached soy chicken is livened up with a ginger and spring onion dip.

Cocktails provide Taiwanese spins on the classics; the refreshing spritz uses homemade grapefruit and hawthorn cordial to add an Aperol-orange hue, mezcal gives the salted plum negroni a smoky edge, and an umami-packed rum, sherry and fermented rice martini is served pre-bottled direct from the freezer. Mrji.co.uk

Sucre, Soho

Argentinian chef Fernando Trocca’s glamorous London outpost

There’s a lot to take in at Sucre: huge chandeliers made from glass decanters, a vast open kitchen with chefs cooking over charcoal, a very lively soundtrack and excellent cocktail lounge. But, nothing detracts from the food, centred around ‘fire cooking’. On the snacks and small plates menu, South American classics like empanada (cheesy pasty-shaped pastries) and scallop tiradito (raw) with jalapeño rub along with white beans with morcilla and romesco, and burnt aubergine with lemon and herbs. Monkfish tail cooked on charcoal with a punchy XO sauce and black beans, and veal ossobuco with saffron risotto are the main course highlights, along with black squid fideu (a kind of paella made with skinny pasta instead of rice). The peach and melon pudding sounds simple, but looks spectacular, and the must-try cocktail is the Campari di Spuma, made with Campari, egg white and gin. sucrerestaurant.com

Junsei, Marylebone

Japanese yakitori and unique cocktails in a new omakase experience

Aman Lakhiani trained in the finest Japanese restaurants in Tokyo and Barcelona before opening his own yakitori venture in London. Junsei means ‘pure’ in Japanese, reflected in the restaurant’s cooking techniques – delicate chicken skewers are grilled over binchōtan oak white coal, coated simply in salt or the house-aged tare sauce. Choose the omakase chef’s table experience to watch the chefs spoon house tare sauce from the pot and hammer charcoal to create sparks. Start with a spoon of barley miso-topped cherry tomato, followed by the chef’s selection of delicate yakitori – chicken breast wrapped in a shiso leaf with fermented plum paste, yuzu-laced tempura mushrooms stuffed with chicken, and umami-rich tsukune meatball skewers served with an egg yolk and soy dipping sauce. Donabe ginger rice bowls take 45 minutes to prepare, being cooked from scratch on the stove in Japanese ceramic pots, then topped with the likes of sea bream, burnt orange and sesame seeds.

The Gin2 cocktail is a must-try for its unique combination of refreshing gin granita capped with a warm gin and ginger-infused meringue-like foam. Or the Bincho Sour is a twist on the classic with Akashi whisky and plum syrup. Junsei.co.uk

JOO X Bunhouse pop-up, Soho

Korean cooking with an edge of modern European from Joo Won

There’s Korean fried chicken and then there’s JFC. Joo Won’s fried chicken is tender inside with a perfectly crunchy exterior sitting on a bed of savoury-sweet chilli sauce – the kind of dish you order again for dessert. Step past the ground-floor bun steamers and go upstairs to the pared back dining room to find this pop-up collaboration and order to share. Delicate slices of lightly cured grey mullet are dressed with sesame, chilli and plum soy, crisp battered hake is offset with beef heart tomato and a sweet-sour soy gastric, and a rich kimchi risotto with cheddar is topped with a poached organic egg to break and stir through. Desserts are by Joo’s wife Sujin and include a chocolate cremeux with yuzu compote and cream infused with hojicha (green tea) and toasted grains. Among the drinks selection, there's a long green plum gin and tonic, and a lime and cherry Shaoxing soda, plus a natural wine list. From 5 August for two months, open Tuesday-Saturday 5-10, Sunday 12-4. bun.house

Al Mare, Knightbridge

Sleek new Knightbridge Italian

The revamped The Carlton Tower Jumeirah is home to a bright and buzzing Italian, focussed around a partially open kitchen that adds a sense of theatre. Butter-soft leather banquettes and crisp blue-and-white linens reflect the restaurant’s coastal theme. Start with snacks such as battuta di tonno – a spicy bite of tuna tartare on saffron arancini – over a glass of Franciacorta, the sparkling wine from Lombardy. There’s a selection of crudo, including white fish ricciolo (yellowtail) with lemon gel dressing for makes a light starter – a good idea if you’re up for a mid-course of pasta. Try agnoletti del plin – guinea fowl stuffed parcels – or the simpler cheese and pepper combo, fusilli cacio e pepe. Two further highlights are the saffron risotto, a classic recipe with the addition of a little licorice, and the signature cacciuccio, a rich seafood dish with orecchiette. Desserts range from classic tiramisu to a glossy Peruvian chocolate tart and tonka bean and hazelnut affogato. Service is impeccable in this very slick new dining room. jumeirah.com/en/dine/london/carlton-tower-al-mare

Pino, Kensington

An Italian institution opens a new ode to Emilia Romana in Kensington

Kensington High Street’s Italian family-run institution, Il Portico, has open a new sister restaurant a few doors down. Fairy lights twinkle from an olive tree in the corner and balsamic vinegar ages in barrels at the restaurant's centre. There's an open kitchen at the back with a turquoise mosaic-adorned pizza oven, from which chefs pull wood-fired focaccia slices and crisp pizzas. Owner James Chiavarini and his staff couldn't be more accommodating, telling stories of Emilia Romana while recommending wines and dishes. Pick a selection of tapas to share – fritto misto is a tangle of courgette discs, plump prawns and squid pieces all coated in a light batter, with a lime mayo for dunking. Burrata sits on a bed of chargrilled veg and bitter friarelli broccoli leaves, while soft salmon is cured with Campari and beetroot. Pasta is equally as impressive – frilly ribbons of homemade pappardelle soak up Forest of Dean wild boar ragù, and squid ink parcels are filled with monkfish and aubergine. British-Italian cocktails include the Cornwall negroni and a Modenese take on a Manhattan, incorporating Pino's 25 year-aged balsamic bitters. Finish with a refreshing carpaccio of pineapple laced with refreshing yogurt sorbet, mint and fresh chillis. famigliaportico.co.uk

Rudy’s Neapolitan Pizza, Soho

Impeccable pizzas in laidback surroundings

London is no stranger to a good pizza – from Yard Sale to Homeslice, Theo’s, Vicoli dio Napoli and Voodoo Ray’s (and many more), there’s stiff competition for who serves the best slice in town. Rudy’s latest outpost in Soho (they have pizzerias scattered across the north of England, including Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool and Leeds) makes a worthy addition to the scene.

Start with an aperitivo of Campari and soda, which arrives premixed in a dinky little bottle alongside a bowl of salted crisps for snacking, before moving onto generous sharing platters loaded with deli treats and house-baked bread.

Pizza toppings are crowd-pleasing, from parmigiana with roasted aubergine to spicy calabrese with ’nduja sausage and cinghiale with wild boar salami. Our lavishly topped capricciosa with creamy fior de latte, prosciutto, mushrooms, Kalamata olives and artichoke hearts ticked all the boxes, but it was the base that really impressed – well-flavoured and pillowy while still being satisfyingly chewy. All of Rudy’s pizzas – baked daily using 24-hour fermented dough – are made by trained and accredited pizzaiolos and it shows. rudyspizza.co.uk/soho/

Turul Project, Wood Green

Modern Hungarian cooking and wines in a light, airy setting

Turul Project takes traditional Hungarian dishes, flavours and produce, and adds some fine-dining polish, courtesy of head chef Levente Koppány from Budapest. A quenelle of silky, luscious goose liver pâté is served with little dollops of red cabbage purée, and cubed and jellied Granny Smith apple – little pops of tangy acidity that balance out the richness of the goose. It’s served with a deliciously buttery brioche roll. Ribbons of cucumber, flakes of smoked trout, caviar and dill cream come with a fermented cucumber velouté – it has a funky yet fresh quality that harmonises perfectly with the delicate flavours of the dish. Mains equally impress, especially a tender, rich cut of hare served with roasted carrot, a crispy bonbon made with confit hare leg, bread dumpling and a sweet-savoury, glossy carrot gravy. Leave room for dessert – lúdláb torte made with bittersweet dark chocolate, and winningly paired with a sour cherry sorbet. Accompanying all of this is an exciting Hungarian wine list replete with grapes, producers and regions you may not have heard of before, but which staff will expertly guide you through. Finish with a digestif of pálinka, Hungary’s traditional fruit brandy – we recommend the plum. turulproject.com

Apothecary, Shoreditch

Sophisticated Tokyo-inspired izakaya for light bites and cocktails

Though its concept is a bit different from the more traditional, informal izakaya you might find in Japan, Apothecary does bring the social aspect of these Tokyo bars with its two softly divided spaces – a sophisticated dining area serving ‘drinking food’, spilling into a smart bar with live DJ sessions over the weekend. The spacious restaurant is contemporary and bright, with Shoreditch-worthy exposed brick, sleek crescent-shaped booths and wooden partitions, and a clear view of the kitchen assembling its Japanese-inspired small plates: buns, sushi, tempura, yakitori-style skewers and sashimi arrive promptly at the table as they’re ready. Highlights on the menu are yellowtail tiradito, combining the fresh fish with zingy yuzu-soy and jalapeños; prawn dragon sushi rolls with crisp tempura in the centre; and the vegan grilled cauliflower with a perfectly paired black sesame sauce. It’s worth trying a side of furikake rice, too, with its umami depth from the nori. Pair these with one of the impressive drinks offerings: plum wine from Japan’s Yamagata Prefecture, or a punchy cocktail, like the sweet pea spritz (tequila shaken with sweet pea syrup and absinthe) or sesame old fashioned. apothecaryeast.co.uk

Heritage, West Dulwich

Smart, modern Indian cooking at new rising star Heritage

A new restaurant in leafy West Dulwich, Heritage is a welcome addition to the neighbourhood from Dayashankar Sharma, previously head chef at Michelin-starred Tamarind. Inside, the restaurant is spacious and elegant, with gold accents adding a modern feel, much like the menu, where you’ll find contemporary versions of dishes from all over India. From the small plates, start with the venison badal jaam (if you usually find game too strong, you’ll love this) – grilled aubergine topped with a fiery tomato sauce, cooling yogurt, and spiced venison. If you’ve got room, share the paneer and pineapple kebab – thick slices of paneer pair perfectly with sweet pineapple. Highlights from the mains include murgh makani, tender chicken in a tomato and fenugreek sauce; Kashmiri lamb spiced with saffron; and the most indulgent version of dahl mhakani we’ve tried – outrageously creamy, it’s not to be missed. The floral tones of the pulao rice steeped in rose water cut through the richness of the other dishes, and be sure to order a truffle naan. Subtly flavoured, it has just the right amount of umami, and is a great vehicle for mopping up all those delicious sauces. heritagedulwich.co.uk

Ino, Soho

Modern, playful riffs on classic Greek dishes

INO is the latest opening from the team behind London restaurants OPSO and PITTABUN. Billing itself as a gastrobar, this compact venue has two snug, buzzy counters upstairs and some (slightly) calmer seats below and outside. Take a place at the bar to watch the action at the grill and get instruction on how to swipe a finger of pitta bread through the taramas topped with a slow-cooked egg yolk and bottarga without mixing it first. Like the taramas, the rest of the dishes are modern, playful riffs on classics – ceviche is dressed with avgolemono, souvlaki made from Iberico presa and octopus makes its way into a taco.

Drinks include a mastiha (a mastic liqueur) G&T with a hint of resin, an excellent selection of Greek wines and a range of barrel-aged cocktails. Don’t leave without trying the Greek salad, a juicy mix of tomatoes, olives and capers topped with chunks of 12-month barrel-aged feta. inogastrobar.com

The Tapas Room, Peckham

Buzzy Spanish tapas spot in the heart of Peckham high street

Going to Tapas Rooms in Peckham is like being in a glass bubble of a restaurant, smack bang on the high street. Buses and cars hurl by outside while delightful plates of carefully crafted deliciousness glide to your table inside.

Effortless wine recommendations from a well-assembled list and a menu full of Spanish wines ordered geographically.

Don't leave without trying the confit fennel where the fresh and subtle fennel is transformed by the confit process and balanced by the sweet/sharpness of the pickled fig and intensity of the creamy yet punchy Asturian blue cheese.

The mixed cured meat and cheese platter is perfect for two if you're still hungry. Split six or so dishes between two if you're after a main meal but simply stopping in for some salt cod croquettas and a glass of sherry is a superb way to start any evening out in south London. www.thetapasroom.co.uk

Kerridge’s Fish and Chips at Harrods, Knightsbridge

Seafood counter classics in Art-Deco surroundings

Pull up a stool and have a glass of wine and some snacks or book for a full three courses. Chef Tom Kerridge’s new restaurant in the lively, Art-Deco-inspired dining hall of the food-focussed Knightsbridge department store is high-end casual, with a menu centred on the best British seafood. Around the counter watch chefs prepare deep fried Cornish brill, line-caught squid and hand-dived scallops – all served on retro blue-and white china – with chips, tartare sauce and pease pudding. If you’re feeling flush choose native lobster or Dover sole, served whole, with herbed butter. There’s a cheeky nod to chip-shop classics in cockle popcorn and malted beer vinegar and pickled onions, eggs and dill pickles as well as triple cooked chips with toppings ranging from curry sauce to lobster thermidor. There are two desserts to choose from; flourless chocolate cake or a seasonal syllabub. Lush, as Tom would say. harrods.com/kerridges

Cinder, Belsize Village

Mediterranean-inspired sharing plates cooked over coals in a cosy neighbourhood setting

Chef Jake Finn’s passion is for cooking over fire, so when he converted a former takeaway in the heart of Belsize Village, the first piece of kitchen equipment he installed was a charcoal-fuelled Josper grill – the hottest indoor barbecue available. It gives his dishes a subtle smokiness, or as Ritz-trained Jake puts it, “kissed by flames”. The Josper and open kitchen are very much part of the theatre at Cinder, a relaxed neighbourhood restaurant that has a special occasion vibe. The room is intimate and dressed with tumbling foliage, and there’s a smart outside terrace, perfect for summer evenings. The menu of 18 dishes is divided into nibbles, veg patch, raw, fish, meat, sides and desserts, and suggests ordering two-three to share. Fluffy, smoky flatbreads with a creamy nutty garlicky tahini introduce the Mediterranean influence, followed by crisp shredded hispi cabbage, textured with pine nuts. Revelations are grilled mastelo cheese with a sweet kalamata olive glaze; and crunchy triple-cooked new potatoes, scattered with black lime salt. For us, highlights from the mains are flattened chicken thighs, sharpened with confit lemon, which go beautifully with a glass of muscadet; and grassy, darkly-crusted beef sirloin, sourced from Cotswolds’ Paddock Farm, heavenly with rioja from the largely European wine list. cinderrestaurant.co.uk

Imad's Syrian Kitchen, Soho

Syrian sharing plates with heart in Soho

Imad Alarnab’s story is a remarkable one. After spending years as a successful restaurateur in Damascus, his businesses were destroyed by the war, and he was forced to flee the country for safety. Shortly after arriving in London in 2015, he began cooking Syrian food at supper clubs and pop-ups (at which he raised thousands of pounds for refugee charity, Choose Love), before crowdfunding for his own permanent restaurant. Located on the top floor of Soho’s Kingly Court, the restaurant has the feel of a family-run taverna, with white walls accented by bright blue windows and tiles, dotted with heart-warming photographs from Imad’s past. As for Imad’s food, its every bit as uplifting as his story. Every dish we tried from his sharing-style menu of Syrian dishes was a hit, from the super-crisp, perfectly seasoned falafel with lightly pickled, sumac-dusted red onions, to the pool of chickpea-topped hummus with hot, fluffy pittas for dunking. Other highlights include the fattet macdous – a dish of silky soft baby aubergines filled with cumin-spiced minced lamb, served with tahini, crispy pittas, pine nuts, herbs, and juicy pops of pomegranate – and the shish tawook, which combines beautifully tender, charred chicken with homemade paprika crisps, tomato mayo and pitta. imadssyriankitchen.co.uk

Rudy's Diner, Islington

Islington-based Rudy’s is the home of London’s first all-vegan diner and butcher

Rudy’s is a sleek American-style restaurant serving vegan versions of classic diner food. Inside you’ll find glossy retro fittings, with black leather stools, plush yellow booths and chequered tile flooring filling the space, with the sounds of show tunes humming in the background. Out the back, Rudy’s boasts London’s first all-vegan butcher, offering seitan or soya-based cold meats for customers to purchase such as baycon, mince patties, honey mustard turkey slices and pastrami. The 100% vegan menu covers fast-food classics, from burgers and mac ‘n’ cheeze to popcorn chick’n and buffalo wingz. Rudy’s take on a Reuben sandwich comes loaded with layers of seitan pastrami, grilled onions, sauerkraut, cheeze, dill pickles and a secret sauce, with flavours and textures closely mimicking the meaty original. The ultimate dirty burger, a stacked-high combination of soya beef, baycon, cheeze, lettuce and pickles, was cartoon-like in appearance though satisfying to chomp down, however the Southern-fried buffalo wingz fell short on imitating chicken due to its thick seitan texture. We washed our meal down with a surprisingly thick and creamy vegan shake – the banana and Lotus Biscoff being an obvious choice – and finished with a warm chocolate brownie which you’d be hard pressed to believe is dairy-free. rudysvegan.com

The Italian Greyhound, Marylebone

British produce is the star served in a beautiful, relaxed setting

Sipping a negroni infused with oregano in the sunshine-flooded room of the Italian Greyhound, it’s hard to believe you’re a stone’s throw from the traffic-heavy Edgware Road. The ambience is calming: light wood, long walk-in bar, plants and patio windows that open onto the villagey vibe of Seymour Place. This new spot is an evolution of the previous Italian restaurant, Bernardi’s. The menu, created by head chef Yohei Furuhashi – previously of the River Café – uses British produce, simply executed, divided into five sections: small plates, all day pizzette (light and thin with toppings ranging from courgette to Calabrian sausage to white peach), pasta, larger plates (choices: sea bream, John Dory, dry-aged ribeye and Herdwick lamb) and dolci. From the small plates, octopus is as tender as marshmallow, with chickpeas, crisp piattoni beans and tiny acid-burst Datterini tomatoes. A glorious discovery is panelle – crunchy-yet-melt-in-the-mouth Sicilian chickpea chips, dressed with sage and lemon. Pasta comes as a starter or main portion – the latter for the healthiest of appetites. Spaghetti is silky, coated with shreds of Cornish crab, fennel seeds, chilli and lemon. Beautifully soft slow-cooked pork, flavoured with vermouth and parmesan, is an unctuous sauce for tagliatelle verde. If you have room left, ensure you try the pistachio tiramisu, as fluffy as a cloud with a creamy nuttiness. theitaliangreyhound.co.uk

Pali Hill, Oxford Circus

A vibrant culinary tour of India in the heart of central London

After several covid-related false starts in 2020, Pali Hill recently reopened permanently just off Oxford Street. Named after one of Mumbai’s oldest neighbourhoods, Pali Hill’s menu reflects the diverse culinary heritage found there, offering regional dishes from all over India. After kicking off with cocktails, try the papadi chat. It harmoniously marries a myriad of contrasting flavours and textures, including soft chunks of potato and tomato, creamy spiced yogurt, crunchy papadi (wheat crackers) and sev (crispy gram flour noodles), tamarind chutney and sweet pops of pomegranate. The Mangalore buns are another top pick from the small plates. Two hot, bready pockets are served with a generous mound of spiced crab for loading into the buns. You can’t go far wrong with any choice in the tandoor & grill section, but our highlights included tandoori monkfish with lemony braised peas; tender aged sirloin with a peppery curry sauce, and beautifully sweet-fleshed grilled Scottish langoustines, coated in a punchy green sauce. As for the larger plates, the homestyle fish curry is light and fragrant, while meat-eaters shouldn’t miss the Chettinad-style veal shin, so beautifully cooked that it falls off the bone at the merest touch. To finish, if you think you don’t have room for dessert, think again, because the passionfruit ‘gola’ is a must. The ultimate palate cleanser, this Indian shaved ice dessert full of zingy passionfruit is so refreshing, it’ll stop any post-dinner slumps in their tracks. palihill.co.uk

Ave Mario, Covent Garden

Head to this buzzy, super-sized Covent Garden restaurant for lavish, camp interiors and superior Italian ingredients

Anyone who loved the OTT charms of Gloria and Circo Populare will find much to enjoy in Big Mamma’s latest opening. Loosely inspired by Florence, it's a sprawling affair with almost 300 seats spread over three floors of kitschy, Instagrammable interiors, from the ground-floor dining room complete with soaring ceilings, green-and-white striped walls and a towering bar stocked with 3,500 bottles, to a louche, mirrored, 70s-style basement bar complete with an open kitchen where you can watch pizzaiolos work their magic. There’s campy Catholic iconography scattered throughout, pictures of Sopranos characters in the loos, pretty vegetable-shaped crockery and a 60cm marbled stracciatella ice-cream cake on the menu to rival Gloria’s famed supersized lemon meringue pie. It’s boisterously fun and undoubtedly a place you go to soak up the atmosphere, but the food – mostly crowdpleasing spins on classics – also impresses, from luscious carbonara ravioli filed with oozy egg yolk and flakes of guanciale, to the pillowiest of pizzas decadently topped with salty pearls of Venetian caviar. Ingredients, sourced from some 180 artisan suppliers, are top drawer – think 36-month-old prosciutto; dreamily creamy Puglian burrata; silky mortadella; and liberal clouds of umami aged parmesan. coventgarden.london/ave-mario

Publiq., Kensington

Modern small plates and complex seasonal cocktails

In the heart of Kensington opposite Hyde Park, Publiq offers a monthly changing menu with an em-phasis on seasonality. The compact dining room, perfect for intimate date nights, is dominated by an art deco teak bar and offers mainly bar seating, plus extra covered seats roadside. The short menu is divided into snacks and sharing small plates, with four-five dishes being the perfect amount for two. Plates, much like the atmosphere, are refined and upmarket without being stuffy, and offer unusual global flavour combinations. While some are more challenging (such as a kiwi-topped burrata), others are expertly pulled off, such as sustainable cobia fish with striking pandan oil and tangy homemade kimchi. Simply named ‘mushrooms’ produces a deep bowl of a glossy fried mushroom medley, topped with pecorino shavings and sticky croutons. For a Mexican addition, ‘suckling pig’ includes a rich chocolatey mole alongside a crisp pork croquette and fluffy masa harina – all cleverly brightened with a squeeze of burnt lime. For drinks, take your pick from the natural wine menu or complex seasonal cocktails, many of which are made with freshly made ingredients, such as an in-house apricot cordial. publiq.london

Temaki, Brixton

The first of its kind in London, this Japanese hand roll restaurant is not to be missed

Temaki, standing for, Te (hand), Maki (roll) has an intimate yet lively feel to it, hosting only 18 covers at a time indoors. The open kitchen brings a sense of connection between the diner and the skilled, humorous chef (Shaulan Steenson) who multitasks, eloquently chatting through the menu while crafting the Temaki. There’s a prevailing joyful atmosphere as the waiting staff are brimming with enthusiasm and knowledgeable about the menu and even more excited to explain about the drinks. We were recommended the Sumi clear Junmai sake which was light with a savoury finish, followed by a sansho peppercorn gin which was topped with filtered lime juice – a sweet yet tangy dream. On to the hand rolls, there are eight to choose from, made fresh to order, alongside meticulously plated small plates. We loved the yellowtail sashimi, which was fresh and tangi from the ponzu with chillies sourced locally from the markets in Brixton. A standout was akami tuna temaki with a nikiri soy filling – not to be missed. If you’re in south west London, or are in the market for a new, fun experience to dive into an interactive Japanese cuisine, Temaki is the place to visit. instagram/temakihandrollbar

Tokyo Pizza, Little Venice

A funky fusion pizza, izakaya restaurant & sake bar

This cavernous, neon-lit little restaurant in the middle of London’s Maida Vale also has an outdoor terrace that was heaving on the warm evening we visited. ‘Japanese’ and ‘pizza’ might not be two words that instantly go together but when our attentive server describes the style of food as ‘izakaya’ – Japanese drinking snacks or bar food – it makes sense. The pizza is Neapolitan-style extra thin crust with a puffed-up chewy rim. It ranges from the safe option of marugerita (sic) to bling toppings like wagyu, short rib or lobster tail all given an extra Tokyo twist with toppings like mizuna, yuzu and sesame. They also pride themselves on ‘mochi’, a Japanese dough or dense bread made from pounded glutinous rice, and the incarnations we tried were a butter-drenched garlic bread version and a cracker-based nacho combo with raw salmon, guacamole, and green chilli. Lots of other snacks and rice bowls are available and alongside our well-priced and adequately potent sake and Japanese whiskey-based cocktails, we nibbled on sweet and sticky tabasaki-glazed chicken wings. tokyo-pizza.co.uk

Humble Chicken, Soho

Nose-to-tail yakitori and modern cocktails in a hip Soho setting

Humble Chicken’s name gets straight to the point. This intimate Soho restaurant, the first from chef Angelo Sato – formerly head chef of Michelin-starred Restaurant Story – is all about grilling every part of the bird (from gizzard to thighs) over binchotan charcoal (a high-quality charcoal used in Japanese cooking). Start with a selection of refined snacks, including a delicate, umami miso foie gras tart and creamy freshly made tofu with tangy kimchi, before diving into the yakitori menu with gusto. Skewers – smoky, juicy, delicious – arrive speedily from the open kitchen, with highlights including meatball with salty tare sauce and egg yolk for dipping, rib with spicy miso and chives, and (our favourite) absurdly tender chicken oysters with smoked garlic and ponzu. Larger plates include crispy chicken leg with rice, and save room for dainty desserts such as deconstructed strawberry cheesecake, and purin, a Japanese dessert akin to a creme caramel, and just as delicious.

There’s Asahi on draft and a small selection of sakes, wines and Japanese whiskies, but it’s the cocktails that deserve most attention on the drinks list, including a tangily fruity lychee martini; a silky Nikka whisky, coconut milk and oolong highball, and a sultry miso and coffee old fashioned. humblechickenuk.com

Kol, Marylebone

Mexican tasting menus and eastern European wine pairings from ex-Noma chef Santiago Lastra
Ex-Noma Mexico chef Santiago Lastra’s opening takes London’s Mexican restaurant scene to a new, fine-dining level. The vibe is kept casual, though, with clay pots of all shapes and sizes displayed against mottled red-orange walls, cute turtle salt pots (crafted in Mexican communities) sat on wooden tables, and Santiago and his mustard t-shirt-clad team calmly tending to multiple pans on the go in the open kitchen.

Order a mezcal negroni or Kol margarita to start, the latter made with Volcán De Mi Tierra tequila and verjus. Santiago sources the finest English ingredients (save corn, chillies and chocolate from Mexico) to create six or nine courses of Mexican dishes. Habanero chillies give a kick to roasted gnocchi, crab and gooseberries; a vibrant beetroot mole adds richness to salt-baked kohlrabi; and wild samphire and oxeye daisies sit atop hen of the woods and king oyster mushrooms. Squeeze sea buckthorn juice from a langoustine head over a sourdough taco stuffed with the crustacean’s meaty flesh and a smoky chipotle mayo. For the main event, fill handmade corn tortillas (kept warm in a bespoke leather pouch) with fall-apart 18-hour cooked short rib smothered in rich pasilla chilli mole along with lamb fat carrots and Mayan scotch bonnet pickled onions. Finish with chocolate tamales in hand-tied parcels and corn husk ice cream. Opt for the wine pairing to taste some unique eastern European natural numbers – aromatic, cloudy Slovakian orange bursting with orange blossom, bright Czech Republic riesling and a herbal German pinot noir made by a two-man operation in the Black Forest. kolrestaurant.com

Cin Cin, Fitzrovia

Casual Italian using the best of British ingredients

The specials board captured our attention immediately: crudo with orange, fennel rabbit cacciatore, green olive and soft polenta; bigoli with anchovy, lemon, chilli and focaccia crumb; lemon meringue pie, blood orange sorbet. Cin Cin’s menu uses the best of British ingredients such as Blythburgh pork and south coast crab, Italian style, along with twists on classics including gnocchi cacio e pepe with Trombetta courgettes, burrata with truffled prosciutto and a Marinda tomato salad with lambrusco marinade that’s a must-order. Start with a glass of Franciacorta (Italy’s answer to champagne and a step up from prosecco) or the house negroni featuring Australian Regal red vermouth and rhubarb bitters, a nod to the owner’s Sydney heritage. Décor is relaxed and there are plenty of outdoor tables in this buzzy part of Fitzrovia, not far from Oxford Street. cincin.co.uk

Café BAO, King's Cross

Bao’s take on Western-style cafés in Asia

This modern all-day dining spot, tucked between the canal and St Pancras, offers a chance to dine in and a take-away bakery option. As the name suggests, this is one of the Bao stable and its signature fluffy white bao is on the menu, along with two exclusive versions (giving you a good excuse to visit every venue), a hamburger bao (just as it sounds) and a seafood roll made from a decadent fried brioche filled with lobster, crayfish and mayo. The rest of lobster reappears as a no-waste dish, head split open with crisp fries to dip into the creamy filling. A Taiwanese breakfast staple is reimagined, the standout ham hock congee comes not with a side of youtiao (fried bread sticks) but a golden pastry topping to rip off and dip – if you only eat one thig, make it this. Desserts feature BAOfiterole and an exemplary pineapple cake (actually a pastry), and cocktails include a plum sake-based negroni. The bakery dispenses salted egg custard ‘sad face’ bao and cookie caramel bao alongside coffee – should you wish to take away. baolondon.com

SUMI, Notting Hill

Michelin-starred Endo at the Rotunda’s more casual sushi restaurant

The bright and airy space, with pale wood panelling, large windows and outdoor decking, perfectly suits the calm practice of SUMI’s sushi chefs. Watch them prepare stunning courses of fresh nigiri on bouncy and neat rice mounds, and wrap wafer-thin sheets of nori seaweed round the likes of minced red tuna and fermented mooli, or diced scallop with delicate purple hanahojiso flowers to make signature temaki rolls. Menu highlights are the seaweed salad coated in a creamy tahini dressing with toasted almonds, and a ceviche showcasing seasonal sustainable fish among a picture-perfect plate of peppers, corianders, marigold and a zingy yuzu dressing. Superb seared Japanese A4 wagyu is served with charred puntarelle and a jug of yuzu onion sauce. Finish by gliding a bespoke wooden spoon through the matcha mille cake’s thin layers of vibrant green, matcha-infused double cream and ultra-fine crêpes. Don’t skip cocktails – the popular kawaii ne is a delicate mix of sake, local Portobello gin, lychee and yuzu, while the smoky boulevardier offers a much punchier blend of peaty whisky, umeshu plum sake, Antica Formula and Campari. sushisumi.com

Hot Stone, Fitzrovia

Wagyu steak and sushi in an elegant setting

This buzzing restaurant is named for the cooking method of the premium-grade kobe and wagyu steak it serves. Heated to 400C, you cook it yourself at the table by briefly searing on both sides. Each steak comes with wasabi, yuzu dipping sauce and asparagus spears. This luscious main course is just one highlight on a very imaginative menu, devised by chef Padam Raj Rai, a lively presence in the restaurant. Butterfish sashimi and scallop carpaccio with truffle ponzu and plum sauce are exquisite and maki rolls feature top-class ingredients such as black cod or yellowtail. Dessert offers just two choices, green tea matcha cheesecake, or mochi. Pair with a tasting flight of sake or Japanese beers. The pared-back decor features wood panels, green tiling, and a beautiful traditional mural. hotstonelondon.com

Bar des Pres, Mayfair

High-class Asian-French hybrid

Leading French chef Cyril Lignac has opened this sleek London outpost of his Parisian Bar des Prés in Mayfair, serving an all-day sharing menu from lunch till late. Key seats are around the counter where sushi chefs prepare Insta-friendly dishes which deliver on flavour, too, such as the signature crunchy crab and avocado galette Madras curry. Other highlights include crispy sushi salmon with chipotle mayo; satay beef fillet with lime and a silky mash potato with vanilla. Desserts, particularly the generous millefeuille with praline, are equally camera-friendly. A lemongrass-spiked margarita, made with mezcal and tequila rimmed with black salt, is the star of the cocktail list. More than two of you? Choose a booth or the high table nearer the entrance. bardespres.com

NoMad Restaurant, Covent Garden

New York meets London hot hotel dining

Housed in the infamous Bow Street magistrates court, the room is dramatic with its high ceiling – bright or moody depending on time of day. A long comfortable banquette divides the space that’s alive with greenery and London buzz. NoMad’s menu has NYC touches (a nod to its sister hotel) and spans the sublime – oysters with cucumber ice, a delicate sea bream crudo with radishes and teeny picked strawberries; to sturdy (but refined) suckling pig; 30-day dry-aged rib-eye, and a brioche-stuffed chicken dish to share between two – to the sublime again: cherry ice cream with mascarpone within a crisp chocolate shell. The hefty wine list is best navigated with the help of the young, friendly wine team. Dinner bookings are like gold dust so go early or late, but go! thenomadhotel.com

Bong Bong's Manila Kanteen, Covent Garden

Filipino sharing food in the West End's hottest indoor food court

Head to Bong Bong's Manila Kanteen in the recently re-opened KERB Seven Dials in Covent Garden for some of the freshest, most delicious Filipino cuisine we’ve tried in London. This restaurant is made for enjoying with a bunch of friends, with the restaurants famed sharing dish of crispy pata pancakes taking centre stage. Sip on creamy, fragrant piña coladas before tucking into a generous feast of slow-cooked melt-in-the-mouth ham hock with a crispy exterior (not dissimilar to hoisin duck), light paper-thin pancakes, fresh coriander and lime, as well as a lip-smacking Mang Tomas sauce. For veggies there’s a crispy mushroom version and an overflowing bowl of adobo-glazed cauliflower that we loved so much it had us ordering more. Round your meal off with a scoop of Bong Bong's famous Milo ice cream, rich, creamy and malted. Bong Bong's is everything we want from a sharing-vibe restaurant – big, well thought out portions, zingy flavours and moreish textures, and fab cocktails with some of the jolliest staff we’ve come across. I think one of the most joyful restaurant experiences we’ve had, we cant wait to head back. bongbongs.co.uk

Franks Bar, Piccadilly Circus

No-reservations French-inspired bar

This is one of those brilliant places – in the basement at upmarket French brasserie Maison Francois – to go when you haven’t made a booking. The lighting is soft and the music is uplifting. A concise cocktail menu (try the Dirty French, a riff on a dirty martini) is complemented by superior, substantial bar snacks. Must-orders are silky jambon noir de Bigorre (ham) sliced at the bar; tomatoes with anchovy, pâté du maison and an unmissable sourdough bread. The signature crispy calf brain bun is a brave choice and so rich it’s best shared between (at least) two of you. There’s a small choice of puddings, ice cream or sorbet with a glug of calvados, and a knockout rum baba. maisonfrancois.london

The Red Duck, Balham

Contemporary Chinese restaurant in leafy Balham

The Red Duck is a casual and fun dining experience, and makes a great addition to the bustling streets of Balham. Sit outside and people-watch, or inside where the tables are close but not uncomfortably so; and most spots have a great view of the kitchen. While there are nods to the kitsch, it’s quite a modern space with crispy duck shredded at the table, neon wall art, plastic serving baskets and paper chopstick holders. The menu is ideal for sharing; while you choose, it’s worth kicking things off with prawn crackers and an ultra-refreshing whisky highball. The ‘best selling’ fresh panko prawn balls are a must, and do not ignore the unassuming hunks of white cabbage on the side of the plate – these moreish pickles cut through the deep-fried snacks beautifully. Special fried rice comes loaded with edamame and curly plump prawns, and don’t leave without trying the hakka paneer with black bean sauce, where a sticky, savoury sauce combined with flash-cooked spring onions and shallots delivers an intense punch of multi-dimensional flavour. theredduck.co.uk

Galvin Bistrot & Bar, Spitalfields

A slice of Parisian eating in London’s Spitalfields

Cheek by jowl with its older, smarter sibling, Galvin La Chapelle, this bar/bistrot previously known as Galvin HOP serves impeccable food that you’d be hard pressed to find the likes of in France. Chef Patron Chris Galvin runs the kitchen, the menu is short with well-sourced ingredients and dotted with classics such as terrine de campagne, charcuterie, duck leg and entrecôte steak with beurre MaÎtre d’Hôtel. Must-order dishes include steak tartare, exceptional frites (have them with everything), and the rum baba sold by the ‘inch’ off a roll, doused in rum at the table and served with a quenelle of chantilly cream. There’s seating outside (with heating if necessary) or a cosier interior complete with a beautiful, very long zinc bar with copper tanks of fresh pilsner above it. The drinks list has some very reasonable wines by the glass, and you can upgrade to the La Chapelle wine list if you ask. galvinrestaurants.com/restaurant/galvin-bistrot-and-bar/

Stay tuned for more reviews of new restaurants in London

Reviews by Christine Hayes, Lulu Grimes, Helen Salter, Hannah Guinness, Alex Crossley, Esther Clark and Miriam Nice