Best pinot noir: everything you need to know

The wonderfully ethereal pinot noirs from the famous vineyards of Burgundy are those most likely to make wine aficionados go weak at the knees – one of the most expensive wines in the world, 2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, will set you back thousands of pounds, such is the esteem Burgundy’s best is held in wine collector circles, and even those relatively more modest bottles now command high prices.

Fortunately for us lesser mortals, pinot noir is also produced elsewhere, although it is fragile and difficult to grow well, thriving only in cool-ish climates and demanding careful treatment. It is a very beautiful wine – pale, sometimes transparent – with flavours that carry the character of the place in which it was made, the unique combination of climate, geology and local environment, known as the terroir.

Germany and Austria make prestigious pinot noirs, often precise, savoury and earthy, while those from warmer climes such as California and Oregon tend to be more overtly fruity. Look to New Zealand for great value – the Central Otago region is famous for its ripe and herbaceous pinots; those from more northerly Marlborough and Martinborough are lighter and more perfumed. Australia’s cooler areas such as Tasmania and Victoria are also good sources, as are Chile’s high-altitude and coastal regions.

I love it slightly chilled, especially but not only in the summer – chilling sharpens the fruit and quenches the thirst. Pinot noir is very forgiving with food, as long as it’s not too heavily spiced. Roast beef, lamb or pork are always good; duck is often even better, especially if it’s cooked with cherries. Salmon, tuna and other meaty fish work well. And it’s fantastic with roast veg and anything involving mushrooms. It’s also really, really good just with a bowl of black pepper crisps – trust me. Let’s all pour a pinot noir.

@KateHawkings